Our all-time favorite designer is Claire McCardell, whom we like to consider the founder of American Sportswear. We have a McCardell mood board up in one of our work-rooms. Born in 1905, she won the prestigious Coty Award in 1944. She’s known for her sensibly cut clothing that was loyal to the lady (wearer) first.
Designer Claire McCardell
Contrary to other fashion designers of the same era, Ms. McCardell was concerned with the performance of her designs when worn by women and sought to be a problem solving designer. She was less concerned with how the press viewed her designs. Still, her designs were unmistakenly feminine and impeccably cut.
Swimsuit with military (large brass) hook-and-eye closures
Ms. McCardell held a truth-in-principle approach to fashion: the clothes she sold were the clothes she herself wore. Early in her career she made a decision not to follow the status quo, but go instead by what she wanted to wear. She grew accustomed to being at odds with current trends.
Day dress using stripes for direction.
Ms. McCardell had a grounded understanding of body-specific clothing construction and employed fit sensitive closures. Overall, her designs are highly sophisticated. She deplored fastenings that were prohibitive to closing one’s self (i.e. zipper in the back of a dress), since she wanted to empower women with independence in dressing. She firmly believed that women needn’t sacrifice comfort for fashion.
Ever present wrapping and ties to define the wearer's body.
Some of the things we especially like about her style: closures, wrap bodices and tie waists, focusing on function and fit.
How about you? Do you have any favorite designers?
From the Carissa Rose Archives:
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Why the Neckline is so Important
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